You know what’s dismal and moopifying? Trying a fancy recipe from a slick food blog - a recipe the blogger praised to the stars, gushed about in a friendly yet authoritative way and photographed in glorious closeup with bokeh and the good spoons - and finding the finished product to be insipid.
This has happened to me a number of times recently, and it’s not that I’m a bad cook. Really. A friend of mine once spontaneously referred to my cupcakes as “little gems of sunshine”, and she’s not even the poetical type. Before our semi-regular braais, whatever chump gets stuck buying the meat brings it over a day early to my house so I can soak it in my wondrous marinade. The biggest fan of my pumpkin pie is a guy who doesn’t even like pumpkin. The point is, I can cook, dammit.
And as someone who can cook, I tend to prick up my ears when a blogger of the calibre of Pioneer Woman or Smitten Kitchen starts raving over a recipe. (By the by, did you know Pioneer Woman’s autobiographical love story Black Heels to Tractor Wheels is going to be made into a movie? True’s I’m sitting here. They’re considering Reese Witherspoon for the lead. I’m really not sure how I feel about all this. Anyway.) You get six stunningly glossy photos, rhapsodies about the rhapsodies of the guests who got to eat the thing, and comparisons to similar products from swanky-sounding restaurants who would allegedly close their doors and commit seppuku if they tasted this, the food blogger’s infinitely grander version.
And then you make it. And it’s…. nice. But no more. In some cases, to add insult to injury, it turns out to be less nice than a recipe you already had (making you secretly pleased and curious as to what heights of enthusiasm said blogger would sustain if she tasted your recipe, and considering sending it in, but refraining because a) food bloggers get that all the time, b) it goes against your upbringing to send emails that say “Your brownies were rubbish, mine are better”, and c) you harbor a tiny possessive streak that forbids it, because what if you want to have your own food blog some day, or even write a cookbook? - even though you know you won’t, because you can’t photograph to save your life and have no discipline). And sure, sometimes you can attribute this to using Pam’s chocolate chips instead of grated Valrhona 70%, or omitting the sun-ripened seasonal figs from the beaming Frenchman with photogenically wrinkled hands at the market who can name to the millisecond when they will start to pong, because you’re not a pretentious privileged gi - I mean, because your supermarket hasn’t stocked figs for years. But sometimes you can’t. Sometimes the recipe is just average.
Now, I get why they do it, of course. There are a lot of food blogs out there, and who’s going to make a cake on the description “Ehh, it’ll fill up a chink in the old tum” when the rest of the blogosphere is claiming their recipe will cause your old high school flame to ring you up that very night, the heavens to open and Elvis to return from the dead? Similarly, who after posting a truly delicious recipe is going to admit that the next few are a come-down, a sop to the necessity of not buying a bucket of creme fraiche every night? And so it begins, a vicious cycle of one-upmanship, and perfectly decent recipes get Botoxed, corseted, squeezed into evening gowns and nudged out onto a stage in front of thousands. One almost feels sorry for them standing there simpering, saying “Oh wow, I’m only a little cake from Texas and this is just such an honour, um, I’d like to thank my mum…”, while knowing deep in their cakey little hearts that it is all a Sham and a Lie.
And if you were not convinced by the photos and the promise that the eating of this cake will provide a spiritual experience so intense that the soles of your feet will be lifted off the ground and you will lapse into a brief coma, there are the comments - all 680 of them. But the thing about the comments, on popular food blogs, this is… is that nobody ever makes the darn thing. It’s all “Oooooh, you’ve done it again! *runs to kitchen*” and “Oh my, I’m totally bookmarking this, how sinful and delicious, my thighs will kill me!”. Which is all very well, but it’s hardly peer-reviewed, innit?
This is not to say that food blogs never produce good recipes. But I’ve had a run of several which have proven disappointing. Smitten Kitchen’s Double Chocolate Torte, for instance, which I made for Helpdesk Man’s birthday. It was OK - I did not blush as I served it, and none of my guests puked it into the bougainvillea - but it wasn’t superlative, and I won’t be making it again. The cake layer was basically a not-as-good-as-mine chocolate brownie, and the top layer a not-as-good-as-mine chocolate mousse (with a slightly salty taste because of the butter. Who puts butter in chocolate mousse?). Similarly, Pioneer Woman’s “The Best Chocolate Sheet Cake. Ever“. Again, not a bad cake, but hardly inspirational. Not something I’d make twice. Certainly not “moist beyond imagination, chocolatey and rich like no tomorrow, and 100% of the time, causes moans and groans from anyone who takes a bite”-able, despite Ree’s promise. David Lebovitz’s Butterscotch Pudding? Bland and cloggy. Helpdesk Man didn’t finish his. And tonight, I decided to have another stab at something creamy and butterscoid, so I made Caramel Pudding, again from Smitten Kitchen. Now, it may taste vastly more delicious after chilling in the fridge, and I hope it will; but judging from preliminary spoon-licking tests, it is no more than adequate.
It peeves me, people.
And lest you think I am picking on these bloggers, SK’s dulce de leche cheesecake squares - ironically, a recipe about which she was less enthused than usual - were pretty yummy, and David Lebovitz’s basic French vanilla ice cream is a thing of beauty and a joy forever (as is his chocolate ice cream, according to Helpdesk Man). (You know, I’m trying to think of a really delicious PW recipe I’ve made, and nothing springs to mind. Isn’t that catty of me? I don’t think I’ve cooked much of her stuff, though. I remember Helpdesk Man didn’t like the Crash Hot Potatoes…)
So, anyway. I love food blogs. They are marvellous. But I am beginning to view their claims with a distrustful and rheumy eye. I’ve had much better luck with recipes ranked by popular vote - the New York Cheesecake on Allrecipes is truly spectacular. So if you are a food blogger casting your eye over my humble pages (and chances are slim, you’re probably my mum, but if you’re not her)…. tone it down a bit, k? Be courageous. Say “This really hit the spot last night when I had pregnancy cravings and would have eaten the fridge if it hadn’t been wedged in, but this morning I think it’s a bit soggy in the middle - but hey, give it a go”. Or take a hint from Presbyterian church supper cookbooks of yore and say “This is an extremely economical pudding”. But don’t play havoc with hopes. One can only get so emotionally invested in caramel-flavoured gloop before succumbing to ulcers, and that wouldn’t be good for your readership, would it?